Producer · Rioja, Spain

Bodega Lanzaga

Bodega Lanzaga is the Rioja home of Telmo Rodríguez and his friend Pablo Eguzkiza, set up in 1998. Telmo left his family's estate in the early 1990s, studied in Bordeaux and worked in Burgundy and the Rhône, then came back with fresh eyes.

Their big idea is to make wines that speak of a single village or vineyard. That ruffled feathers with Rioja's regulators, but Telmo sees it as going back to how Rioja worked in the 17th century. When he was told he could not print the village name on his labels, he simply drew a black line through it.

Today they farm 25 hectares in 40 plots around Lanciego and Labastida, all organic and biodynamic, with fruit trees among the vines. The wines are mostly Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha, from bright unoaked reds to deep old-vine wines from high sites.

Winery at Lanciego, Rioja · Tempranillo, Graciano and Grenache · £19.99 to £31.49 a bottle