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Producer Loire, France

Domaine Ogereau

Emmanuel Ogereau is making a name at the family domaine in Anjou for Chenin Blanc that is precise, elegant and totally dry. He came home in 2014 after learning his trade in Central Otago and Oregon.

Winery at Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay, Loire.

With his father Vincent's blessing, he has changed course. The vineyards are now organic and biodynamic, and the focus has moved from the sweet and red wines his father was known for to dry Chenin from single sites. The 23 hectares are in Savennières and around Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay, on dark schist and spilite soils.

Cover crops and a flock of sheep in winter keep the soils healthy. He picks early, sorts strictly, ferments with wild yeasts and ages the wines on their lees in barrels, foudres, amphorae and concrete eggs, giving taut, mineral whites.

Domaine Ogereau wines