Jean-Marc Burgaud

He grew up in Lantignié, where he still has vines. Christine, his wife, grew up in Morgon, and their 11.5 hectares there came from her family. Jean-Marc says an old bottle her father opened when they first met showed him what Beaujolais could be. His prize holding is five hectares of densely planted bush vines, set out between 1940 and 1974, at the top of Morgon's most famous hill.

There is no recipe here. He picks ripe, tastes the fermenting wine every day to judge the tannins, and ferments whole bunches. Everything is aged in concrete, because, as he puts it, Gamay and oak do not really get on.