Poggiotondo

His son Alberto, a well-known consultant winemaker, now runs the 50-hectare estate with his wife Alessandra. The vines have been organic since 2014. Alberto sticks to local Tuscan grapes such as Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino and Trebbiano, and uses concrete tanks and untoasted oak to keep the fruit fresh and lively.

Some plots are packed with fossil seashells, chosen with his friend the soil expert Pedro Parra. One tiny old vineyard has rows so narrow that only a horse fits between them, so everything there is done by hand.